I Cleared Up My Hyperpigmentation Thanks To This 5-Step Method
I moved to Vietnam in April 2014 from South Korea to teach English. After living in Korea for two years, and adopting a Korean skin care routine, my skin was pretty flawless. But after my move, my skin rebelled, and I had one of the worst breakouts I'd ever had. Enter my new issues with hyperpigmentation.
It started off with a few pimples that I could keep under control, but by the next year, I had a full-blown acne problem. A combination of the terrible pollution in Ho Chi Minh City mixed with the hot, humid climate left the skin around my chin, cheeks, and jawline a hot mess.
I finally managed to tame the breakout, but I was left with nasty post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH for short. It made me self-conscious and I hated going outside without makeup. My skin felt smooth, but looked as if I was a 16-year-old hormonal teenager. No ma'am!
One of my friends introduced me to the world of AHAs, or Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, and my life has forever been changed. AHAs work by gently exfoliating the top layer skin to remove dead skin cells. As a result, using AHAs reveal healthy, younger looking skin, free of PIH.
There are three types of AHAs that I gravitate towards: glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. Glycolic acid is the most common type of AHA. Its molecules are smaller than other AHAs, which is why people typically see faster results using glycolic acid, but it's also more irritating than other types of AHAs. If you have sensitive skin, lactic acid is a better option since it's much more gentle than glycolic. But by far my favorite AHA is mandelic acid. Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is just as effective as glycolic acid, but causes significantly less redness, flakiness, and dry skin. Mandelic acid is also a better choice for Black women as it doesn't cause additional skin discoloration like glycolic acid can.
Armed with my newfound education in AHAs and all that they can do, I incorporated them into my modified Korean skincare routine, and slowly but surely, saw impressive results. After about three months, my skin was completely acne and PIH free! My skin currently looks the best it's ever had, and I'm constantly getting compliments on my glowy skin. It's a far cry from where I was at the beginning of the year!
My nighttime skincare routine goes something like this:
**Note, I only apply AHAs at night as they make your skin sensitive to the sun!**
Step One:
Remove makeup and sunscreen with an oil based cleanser. I love the Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing oil, but you can also use any basic oil like olive oil or argan oil. I personally do not use coconut oil as it's slightly comedogenic and causes me to break out.
Step Two:
Cleanse skin again using a gentle foaming cleanser. One of my all time Korean beauty favorites is the su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick. It's so popular, it was discontinued for a while to allow for the company to restock. Next, follow up with a toner. I am obsessed with Son and Park's Beauty Water, an all in one cleaner, toner, and hydrating treatment.
Step Three:
Use an AHA serum/treatment. I like to apply it with my hands instead of a cotton pad as it doesn't waste product. AHA serums are typically a bit expensive, and I like to save money! Gently press the product into your skin and wait between 20 to 30 minutes before moving on to your next skincare step. Why the waiting period? AHAs work at a lower pH, typically less than 4. Applying a moisturizer directly after your AHA treatment increases the pH of your skin, which renders the active ingredients in your treatment useless.
So the waiting period is necessary to allow the AHAs to work their exfoliating magic! I also apply my AHA serum as a spot treatment, to help speed up the healing process of any existing breakouts. While I wait for the AHA to do its thing, I usually get my clothes and lunch ready for the next day. My current favorite is the Vivant Skincare 8% 3-in-1 Mandelic Acid Serum. Paula's Choice is also another great option to find affordable and effective AHA treatment serums.
Step Four:
Apply a hydrating toner or serum. In Korean skincare, most toners are for hydration, not for cleansing. I love theWhamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner. I have oily skin, but my skin feels pretty dry after applying my AHA treatment, so I make sure to hydrate my skin a ton at night. If you really want to indulge, use a sheet mask for this step. Beautibi is sheet mask heaven!
Step Five:
Apply your moisturizer or facial oil (or if you're like me, both!), and BOOM! You are finished for the night. I'm currently loving the Whamisa Organic Flowers Facial oil, and the Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask. I mix them together for the ultimate hydrating boost.
In the morning, make sure to apply a sunscreen after your moisturizer, and before you apply primer or makeup. As I mentioned earlier, AHAs make your skin photosensitive, so wearing sunscreen during the day is non-negotiable. Don't make the mistake of investing in expensive AHA treatments only to not use sunscreen! My favorite sunscreen is the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence. It's perfect for oily skinned women, and wears under makeup like magic.
Following this routine, I managed to get rid of my PIH. Now, my skin is bright, clear, smooth and soft. I rarely have breakouts, and my skin is even toned. My biggest bit of advice during this whole process is to be patient and start off very slowly with your AHA treatment. Use the lowest percentage product (3%-5%) possible, twice a week at first. If your skin starts flaking, purging, is red and unusually dry, scale back your use. Once your skin starts adjusting to treatment, you can increase your usage, and then increase your AHA percentage.
I'm currently up to using 8%-10% products and am going to move up to 15%! Adding in AHAs to my skincare routine has drastically changed the appearance of my skin every way! It's not an overnight cure, but the best things come to those who wait!
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ItGirl 100 Honors Black Women Who Create Culture & Put On For Their Cities
As they say, create the change you want to see in this world, besties. That’s why xoNecole linked up with Hyundai for the inaugural ItGirl 100 List, a celebration of 100 Genzennial women who aren’t afraid to pull up their own seats to the table. Across regions and industries, these women embody the essence of discovering self-value through purpose, honey! They're fierce, they’re ultra-creative, and we know they make their cities proud.
VIEW THE FULL ITGIRL 100 LIST HERE.
Don’t forget to also check out the ItGirl Directory, featuring 50 Black-woman-owned marketing and branding agencies, photographers and videographers, publicists, and more.
THE ITGIRL MEMO
I. An ItGirl puts on for her city and masters her self-worth through purpose.
II. An ItGirl celebrates all the things that make her unique.
III. An ItGirl empowers others to become the best versions of themselves.
IV. An ItGirl leads by example, inspiring others through her actions and integrity.
V. An ItGirl paves the way for authenticity and diversity in all aspects of life.
VI. An ItGirl uses the power of her voice to advocate for positive change in the world.
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You've Never Seen Luke James In A Role Quite Like This
Over the years, we've watched Luke James play countless characters we'd deem sex symbols, movie stars, and even his complicated character in Lena Waithe's The Chi. For the first time in his career, the New Orleans-born actor has taken on a role where his signature good looks take a backseat as he transforms into Edmund in Them: The Scare—a mentally deranged character in the second installment of the horror anthology series that you won't be able to take your eyes off.
Trust us, Edmund will literally make you do a double take.
xoNecole sat down with Luke James to talk about his latest series and all the complexity surrounding it—from the challenges taking on this out-of-the-box role to the show's depiction of the perplexing history of the relationship between Black Americans and police. When describing the opportunity to bring Edmund's character to life, Luke was overjoyed to show the audience yet another level of his masterful acting talents.
"It was like bathing in the sun," he said. "I was like, thank you! Another opportunity for me to be great—for me to expand my territory. I'm just elated to be a part of it and to see myself in a different light, something I didn't think I could do." He continued, "There are parts of you that says, 'Go for it because this is what you do.' But then also that's why it's a challenge because you're like, 'um, I don't know if I'm as free as I need to be to be able to do this.' Little Marvin just created such a safe space for me to be able to do this, and I'm grateful for everything I've been able to do to lead to this."
Courtesy
Them: The Scare, like the first season, shines a light on the plight of Black Americans in the United States. This time, the story is taking place in the 1990s, at the height of the Rodney King riots in Los Angeles. While the series presents many underlying themes, one that stands out is Black people and the complicated relationship with the police. "For the audience, I think it sets the tone for the era that we're in and the amount of chaos that's in the air in Los Angeles and around the country from this heinous incident. And I say it just sets the tone of the anxiety and anxiousness that everybody is feeling in their own households."
James has been a longtime advocate against police brutality himself. He has even featured Elijah McClain, the 23-year-old Colorado man who died after being forcibly detained by officers, as his Instagram avatar for the past five years. So, as you can imagine, this script was close to his heart. "Elijah was a soft-loving oddball. Different than anyone but loving and a musical genius. He was just open and wanted to be loved and seen."
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Luke continued, "His life was taken from him. I resonate with his spirit and his words...through all the struggle and the pain he still found it in him to say, 'I love you and I forgive you.' And that's who we are as people—to our own detriment sometimes. He's someone I don't want people to forget. I have yet to remove his face from my world because I have yet to let go of his voice, let go of that being [because] there's so many people we have lost in our history that so often get forgotten."
He concluded, "I think that's the importance of such artwork that moves us to think and talk about it. Yes, it's entertaining. We get to come together and be spooked together. But then we come together and we think, 'Damn, Edmund needed someone to talk to. Edmund needed help... a lot [of] things could have been different. Edmund could have been saved.'
Check out the full interview below.
Luke James Talks Ditching Sex Symbol Status For "Them: The Scare", Elijah McClain, & Morewww.youtube.com
Featured image by Getty Images